Rover 200 & 400 Owners Club Forum

Could be the same black they use to paint the top door frames on the standard car? Just a thought. These look satin on a lot of cars but they just go that way with age. They're actually quite a shiny gloss black on a new car and people often polish the paint back to a gloss look as part of a general...

I've found a pair of front shocks for a reasonable price but I'm still on the hunt for the correct catalytic converter to a standard that's actually going to work and not just be a metal box of nothing. Any tips on that welcome. Go for a more expensive type approved one? Bigger brick = better emiss...

Looks like an excellent job on the wood trim. Good to know someone has done this and I might very well need to do this in the future. Did you mention what type of varnish you used? Might be a useful starting point for people. Looking of some forums, I bought Nitrocellulose in a can, and a tinted one...

Yep, I'll most likely be fixing the mudflaps with penny washers. I have the rears too, they just aren't fitted for some reason. I'm not short of screws, either. Often wondered if I could make some oval pieces the same size as the oval cut-outs in the mudguards, but with tapered sides on fairly thic...

The front (and rear) mudguards all suffer the same problem - they have a metal core sheet that just rusts away. Penny washers, potentially sprayed or otherwise coated in black or a colour to match the trim, are the way to go. You can't buy the original screws but they're standard self tappers. They'...

richard moss wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:37 pm

Rimmer Brothers list them.........£172

Part number LHH10034

What's different compared to the SOHC item (which is just as expensive)?

They say "available from our suppliers", but they're not.

I personally use Dexron II D spec fluid in Honda 'boxes, and have never had any ill effects. I use it for the PAS too. Definitely agreed for the PAS, as it's on the fluid check sheet. I buy Castrol IID which is indeed advertised as an ATF, but on the inside of the label it also clearly states it ca...

Got it home and found the dizzy cap scratched up on the inside, and the ignitor module to have been replaced previously. Couldn't tell if the coil had or not but it was working. Scratched up? I wonder... if the ignitor has been replaced and the person who did it didn't mount back the splash guard o...

Seem to be NLA everywhere from Rover and Honda all over the world

I remember some one [Jonny216GSi?] talking about always replacing the heat sink pad and glueing/sticking it to the module? There will be a thread in T&D some where. Twas me. The ignitor module has transistors in it that get hot. They have a metal back plate which I assume bolts to some metal inside...

For a ATF change I'm thinking of using Hondamatic MTF 3? I have read that the Honda box doesn't like being filled with anything else? I can find two small filters, neither of which is asump type pickup filter; 1] under the twin gearchange soleniod on top of the box I expect that can be removed wash...

Hope winter is OK to it, it's rot free at the moment, and if it ends up laid up for a long time I'll have to take care that the cooling system doesn't do its party trick of rotting out the water channels on the head gasket. Change the coolant now then :) You can get 2 year monoethylene glycol deliv...

Done! My garage guy didn't even use the air tool - all by hand. The trick was to hammer the T50 bit into the head so it seated as tightly as possible, then he took the bolt by surprise with a 1/2" breaker bar and a rapid pull. More muscles + technique = human impact wrench. Just a note on the bolts ...

Go under the car start with wd40 or similar then when that’s dried a little copper slip them. Should help you cause a little. Or try an impact driver with the t50 Will do. Will probably end up having to take it to my garage guy anyway :sad He will be pleased :laughing2 Can't believe 7 turned and it...

I've managed to turn every one except the front passenger side seat - the rear bolt closest to the B post just won't budge.

I'm using a decent T50 bit with a 1/2" breaker bar and extension.

I gave it 3 goes and the bit is just starting to mangle the head of the bolt.

Any ideas?