Rust Proofing

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Paul_1978_yorks
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Rust Proofing

#1 Post by Paul_1978_yorks » Sat Jan 14, 2017 9:19 am

I want undertake as much rust proofing as I can on my 416 this year.

I'm ok with undersealing the arches etc, but as for "injecting sills" - what do you use and what are your injection points?

Any other general tips of this nature will I'm sure be of mutual interest to all owners :-)
Current:
1996-N Nightfire 420 GSi Tourer
2005 Volvo V50 1.8 Sport
Former:
1994-M BRG 214 SEi
1995-N Silver 214 SEi
1995-N Nightfire Red 214 SEi
1995-M Silver 216 SLi
1993-K Caribbean Blue 216 Cabriolet
1990-G White 416 GSi
+ a 25, 45 & 75

crepello
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Re: Rust Proofing

#2 Post by crepello » Sat Jan 14, 2017 10:21 am

You'll find various blanking grommets sealing access points to box sections, unless a repairer has plated them over. The most visible ones being low down at the front of the rear wheel arches. I used these to squirt Waxoyl in using their long tube, but I've no idea how effective the spray pattern was. The technique was to insert it all the way, then slowly retract while squeezing the trigger.

More recently, I've noticed that age has made the blanking grommets stiffer and somewhat brittle. I've been looking for replacements, but such that I have found are designed with a narrow groove for flat sheet apertures, not the rounded/drawn edge given to ours.

220 GSi turbo
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Re: Rust Proofing

#3 Post by 220 GSi turbo » Sat Jan 14, 2017 7:13 pm

As above,

Plus:
Remove the kick plates from the sills, you can use the screw holes for additional access into the sills.
remove the interior lamp switches from the pillars, that gives you entry to the B post and part of the rear wheel arch area.
On 4 and 5-door cars it is easy to remove the small plastic rubbing strip thing from the rear wheelarch and that gives you another access point into the arch and sill.
Removing the boot lamp gives access to the top and rear end of the wheelarch on that side of the car.

remove the boot seal at the bottom (by the latch), rust often starts on the lip there.

I have used Bilt Hamber products on our cars and have had no cause for complaint yet :)
1995 220GSi Turbo: owned for 17 years
1994 216SLi
2000 25 GTi

Daily: 25 TD

Previously: 216 Coupe L887PTR(1993-95) 214SLi N219EPO(1995-96) 420GSi Turbo L955UKV(1997-2004) 214SEi M884BMR(2004-11) 420GSi Tourer M650XEX(2005-6) 214 SEi M103BCW(2011-12)

Paul_1978_yorks
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Re: Rust Proofing

#4 Post by Paul_1978_yorks » Sat Jan 14, 2017 9:16 pm

Brill, thanks guys :-)
Current:
1996-N Nightfire 420 GSi Tourer
2005 Volvo V50 1.8 Sport
Former:
1994-M BRG 214 SEi
1995-N Silver 214 SEi
1995-N Nightfire Red 214 SEi
1995-M Silver 216 SLi
1993-K Caribbean Blue 216 Cabriolet
1990-G White 416 GSi
+ a 25, 45 & 75

prepace
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Re: Rust Proofing

#5 Post by prepace » Sat Jan 14, 2017 9:45 pm

Great advice...........I'll be tackling that job on both cars over the coming months
Current Rover

1990 'G' R8 214 Si 5dr - Flame
1998 'R' R8 416 SE Tourer - Charcoal
1991 'J' R8 416 GTi - Cherry

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GTiJohn
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Re: Rust Proofing

#6 Post by GTiJohn » Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:39 am

Related to this, regular cleaning out of all the cack that gets behind the rear of the front wheel arch liners is a good idea.

Most of it is usually leaves so after autumn is probably the best time.
I like Twin Cams.... and Single Cams

JEASPEKE
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Re: Rust Proofing

#7 Post by JEASPEKE » Thu Jan 19, 2017 7:50 pm

Waxoyl goes in better if you stand the can in a bucket of hot water for 30 mins or so, otherwise, it has a jelly-like texture at Uk temps.
John Anfield

Paul_1978_yorks
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Re: Rust Proofing

#8 Post by Paul_1978_yorks » Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:15 pm

Good tip John :-)
Current:
1996-N Nightfire 420 GSi Tourer
2005 Volvo V50 1.8 Sport
Former:
1994-M BRG 214 SEi
1995-N Silver 214 SEi
1995-N Nightfire Red 214 SEi
1995-M Silver 216 SLi
1993-K Caribbean Blue 216 Cabriolet
1990-G White 416 GSi
+ a 25, 45 & 75

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g259fsg
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Re: Rust Proofing

#9 Post by g259fsg » Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:28 pm

I agree, it's best to spray the Waxoyl when it's quite liquid. Warming it up in cold weather is useful, but for spraying I usually dilute it with around 30 to 50% white spirit. I apply it with the Waxoyl pressure sprayer and extension for box sections. I spray the whole underside of the car with it, really fast. It's very effective and the stuff will go into every nook and cranny, and the white spirit dilution means it flows easily even in cold weather. The white spirit soon evaporates and leaves the Waxoyl all over. Another place to check for corrosion is behind the plastic mudflaps at the back of the front wheel arches if you have these fitted. They attach with three crosshead screws. I've found quite a lot of muck behind there - think it comes down through a drainage channel. Definitely worth cleaning that out and Waxoyling.

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Re: Rust Proofing

#10 Post by JEASPEKE » Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:54 pm

Even better :clapping

Paul_1978_yorks
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Re: Rust Proofing

#11 Post by Paul_1978_yorks » Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:35 pm

Loving all the tips. Can't wait for some spring weather now to get stuck in!
Current:
1996-N Nightfire 420 GSi Tourer
2005 Volvo V50 1.8 Sport
Former:
1994-M BRG 214 SEi
1995-N Silver 214 SEi
1995-N Nightfire Red 214 SEi
1995-M Silver 216 SLi
1993-K Caribbean Blue 216 Cabriolet
1990-G White 416 GSi
+ a 25, 45 & 75

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1234dist
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Re: Rust Proofing

#12 Post by 1234dist » Tue Jan 31, 2017 8:27 am

As we all know, my black coupe has been a LLLLLLOOOOOONNNNNNGGGGG project.

(I've been fixing everyone elses) :angel

So during this year project most of the work completed on the car has been that of rust proofing. Seeing as i got the car shell for free (bar collection from southampton) this project currently stands at £2250. :slapme

The shell was picked up due to being completely rust free (and black) and have since done that much rust proofing and sound proofing i'm almost confident the car could now float.

If you are serious about stopping rust you do need to be prepared to go back to bare shell and build yourself up. The hardest part is not just spraying waxoil everywhere but remembering the drainage points in the doors ect.

The other issue i had was when i'd done arch liners and behind the wings was it was soooooo shiny :unsure
220 Coupe turbo K785OAT (issues :glare )
Rover Sport 220GTI m-series K56AEP
218 VVC Cabriolet R220OVR
220 GTI M-series J777RAL
75 2.0 CDT P80CJM
620 SLI P267LOM HONDA
420 GSI Turbo L191CVP

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ROVER-25X
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Re: Rust Proofing

#13 Post by ROVER-25X » Thu Feb 02, 2017 9:55 pm

Get one of these and a cheap air compressor. ;)


Image



I got it for a rust/panel repair on my old MGF, going to use it on the Cabby. :D
ROVER-25X (2001 1.4 ROVER 25)
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ROVER 25XD (2004 2.0TD ROVER 25)
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1234dist
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Re: Rust Proofing

#14 Post by 1234dist » Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:53 am

i still have pics of that grind and fill session, even knowing what we did to it, i still bought it off you. :slapme

So much rust and weld on my shop floor from your cars... :glare
220 Coupe turbo K785OAT (issues :glare )
Rover Sport 220GTI m-series K56AEP
218 VVC Cabriolet R220OVR
220 GTI M-series J777RAL
75 2.0 CDT P80CJM
620 SLI P267LOM HONDA
420 GSI Turbo L191CVP

Paul_1978_yorks
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Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:11 pm
Location: Wakefield, West Yorks

Re: Rust Proofing

#15 Post by Paul_1978_yorks » Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:31 am

ROVER-25X wrote:Get one of these and a cheap air compressor. ;)


Image



I got it for a rust/panel repair on my old MGF, going to use it on the Cabby. :D
Good idea - will any air compressor gun fit on an aerosol like that or do you need an adapter of some sort?
Current:
1996-N Nightfire 420 GSi Tourer
2005 Volvo V50 1.8 Sport
Former:
1994-M BRG 214 SEi
1995-N Silver 214 SEi
1995-N Nightfire Red 214 SEi
1995-M Silver 216 SLi
1993-K Caribbean Blue 216 Cabriolet
1990-G White 416 GSi
+ a 25, 45 & 75

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