Front discs

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Rover dave
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Front discs

#1 Post by Rover dave » Tue Mar 26, 2019 5:57 pm

I have a k plate 214si that I think needs new front disc`s how easy are these to replace myself and what`s involved ?

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Johnny 216GSi
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Re: Front discs

#2 Post by Johnny 216GSi » Tue Mar 26, 2019 6:43 pm

Rover dave wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 5:57 pm
I have a k plate 214si that I think needs new front disc`s how easy are these to replace myself and what`s involved ?
You'll have to jack the car and put an axle stand under the front sill edge. Remove the front callipers and carriers - both are on bolts, so sockets are involved but at least you should be able to get them to move, depending on age and amount of rust. Don't think you can get away with not disconnecting the flexible brake pipe (Banjo bolt into the calliper), though I expect some people just let them dangle :scared Don't lose the copper washer on the banjo bolt. Then you've got the problem of those pesky M6 countersunk screws (that have probably gone rusty) holding the discs to the hubs. Usually only two per disk but I hate them. Slide on the new discs and then reverse all the steps you've done to get to this point. Then you'll have to bleed the braking system once the callipers are back on and connected up (bleed screw on the back of the calliper).
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crepello
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Re: Front discs

#3 Post by crepello » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:42 pm

Rover's WSM is happy with tying the loose calipers up out of the way with a piece of wire.

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Re: Front discs

#4 Post by richard moss » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:48 pm

You don't need to disconnect the brake hoses - you can tie the caliper to the coil spring to keep it out of the way
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Re: Front discs

#5 Post by itcaptainslow » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:50 pm

richard moss wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:48 pm
You don't need to disconnect the brake hoses - you can tie the caliper to the coil spring to keep it out of the way
This-no need to disconnect the brake hoses.
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Re: Front discs

#6 Post by Mr Teddy Bear » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:54 pm

They're relatively straight forward compared to a 600! :D

You don't say whether you've done a brake service before? :S

You need an impact hammer to shift the countersunk screws holding the disk on!

I would clamp the flexible hose, either with a purpose made clamp [ebay] or use a Mole Wrench with a piece of rag wrapped around the hose.

Always replace disks and brake pads as a set and service the calipers at the same time; I would replace the piston bore seal and dust boot at the same time.

Make sure that the requisite pad shims etc are still there, some times they're missing! Look on Rimmers website for an exploded drawing of all the parts.
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Re: Front discs

#7 Post by Kriss707 » Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:51 pm

Copper grease the Calliper Slider Pins & make sure the dust covers on them is located correctly so it does its job. Best practice and you will pat yourself on the back the next time you have to do them.

These are a complete bstd if stiff of seized, not to mention the possible damage and danger that may happen !

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Re: Front discs

#8 Post by StubbornPatriot » Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:56 pm

I just hang the calipers off the suspension springs using a length of 4mm bonsai wire - great stuff to have in your toolkit. You won't necessarily need an impact driver but there's a fair chance you will. I've never had any problem getting the caliper bolts undone even very old ones - just use the right kit. You should really torque the bolts back up again when refitting but I know a lot of people don't bother with a torque wrench. You'll need to push the pistons back in using a G clamp (or valve spring compressor) - keep an eye on the brake fluid level when you do this, as you don't want it overflowing onto the paintwork. Make sure the flats on the carrier fitting are rotated to the right position when refitting. Don't forget to pump the brakes before you go anywhere!
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Re: Front discs

#9 Post by itcaptainslow » Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:02 pm

Kriss707 wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:51 pm
Copper grease the Calliper Slider Pins & make sure the dust covers on them is located correctly so it does its job. Best practice and you will pat yourself on the back the next time you have to do them.

These are a complete bstd if stiff of seized, not to mention the possible damage and danger that may happen !
Copper grease isn’t the best thing to use on the slider pins, as it can attack rubber and also dries out & goes sticky. Best stuff is the proper ceramic brake grease available from most motor factors-works well on the pad backings and carriers too.
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Julesmat50
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Re: Front discs

#10 Post by Julesmat50 » Wed Mar 27, 2019 12:20 am

Johnny 216GSi wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 6:43 pm
Rover dave wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 5:57 pm
I have a k plate 214si that I think needs new front disc`s how easy are these to replace myself and what`s involved ?
Slide on the new discs and then reverse all the steps you've done to get to this point.
Making sure that before you fit the discs, you ensure that you have cleaned off the surface of the hub, all rust, dirt and anything else, as even the tiniest speck of dirt can give terrible brake judder as the disc is not running true. Any slight deviation on the hub, will be magnified by the time it gets out to the braking surfaces.
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Re: Front discs

#11 Post by Rover dave » Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:38 pm

Thanks for all the advice . :)

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Re: Front discs

#12 Post by GTiJohn » Thu Mar 28, 2019 7:37 pm

Julesmat50 wrote:
Wed Mar 27, 2019 12:20 am
Johnny 216GSi wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 6:43 pm
Rover dave wrote:
Tue Mar 26, 2019 5:57 pm
I have a k plate 214si that I think needs new front disc`s how easy are these to replace myself and what`s involved ?
Slide on the new discs and then reverse all the steps you've done to get to this point.
Making sure that before you fit the discs, you ensure that you have cleaned off the surface of the hub, all rust, dirt and anything else, as even the tiniest speck of dirt can give terrible brake judder as the disc is not running true. Any slight deviation on the hub, will be magnified by the time it gets out to the braking surfaces.
To give you the best chance of avoiding brake vibrations, such as judder, you want to minimise the run-out of the brake disc. This is done by selecting the best position of the disc relative to the bearing in the knuckle. If you have a DTI gauge you should put the disc on in all 4 possible positions, holding it in place with nuts rather than the screws (which are really only there to stop it falling off when the wheels are off and the pads are out and rust anyway) and choosing the lowest run-out of the 4 positions.

This vid may help - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrQ9PF5F7Mg

If you're very dedicated you should try both discs on each side of the car and pick the best overall result :angel
I like Twin Cams.... and Single Cams

Rover dave
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Re: Front discs

#13 Post by Rover dave » Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:21 pm

Thank`s for all the advice . :)

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Re: Front discs

#14 Post by Rover dave » Tue Aug 25, 2020 1:00 pm

Run off on discs is 3000 thou one side and 4000 thou the other , these are new so is this in tolerance ? :S as I have still have a problem and even changed the the drums and shoes yesterday .

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Re: Front discs

#15 Post by GTiJohn » Tue Aug 25, 2020 3:03 pm

Hopefully you mean 3 and 4 thou :)
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