The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

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The Origina lNom
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The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#1 Post by The Origina lNom » Sun Sep 23, 2018 7:41 pm

Hi guys,
Pictures will be coming soon.
Last edited by The Origina lNom on Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:23 pm, edited 9 times in total.

burtonm
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#2 Post by burtonm » Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:52 am

Intrigued about the 'teg manifold.
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#3 Post by GTiJohn » Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:11 am

Interesting mods - pics would be good (via Flickr or similar).

The ARB bushes and new dampers should help you with steering response but won't change the amount of handshake angle you need - to do that you'd need to change the steering ratio by fitting a different steering rack. All R8 PAS racks have the same ratio and this is shared with R3. The later R3s have a different valve arrangement and reduced rack travel to allow bigger tyres to be fitted on the MG ZS versions. The 'valve under' design of the R8 steering rack makes fitting any different racks very difficult, if not impossible. The ZS gear is probably your best bet but that would need to go in with the matching ZS rear subframe which was designed purely to fit with Rover engines and so would need careful modification to fit the rear engine mount and PAS pipe runs.

Another small change worth considering is to fit the slightest shorter front suspension tiebars from the R3 along with polybushes where the attach to the front subframe. This in increases the castor angle slightly, adding a little extra weight to the steering. Remember to get the wheel alignment reset after you do this.
I like Twin Cams.... and Single Cams

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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#4 Post by The Origina lNom » Thu Sep 27, 2018 4:43 pm

BurtonM
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#5 Post by GTiJohn » Sat Sep 29, 2018 9:03 am

I intend to try swapping over the front wishbones
It's only the forward-facing tie bars that need changing to affect the caster as the bushes in the lower arm and the lower balljoints just take up the little bit of twist.

If your lower arms are worse for wear it would be worth changing them at the same time though.
I like Twin Cams.... and Single Cams

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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#6 Post by The Origina lNom » Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:57 pm

Thank you, I was told that the top wishbones on all Rover 400s had them fitted contra their markings. ie the wishbone marked as L was fitted to the RHS and visa versa.

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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#7 Post by GTiJohn » Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:22 am

The Origina lNom wrote:
Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:57 pm
Thank you, I was told that the top wishbones on all Rover 400s had them fitted contra their markings. ie the wishbone marked as L was fitted to the RHS and visa versa.
The R8 400 is a Macpherson strut front suspension. The latter HH-R 400 has double wishbones at the front and I think the clever chassis chaps reversed the fitment of the upper wishbones as you say, on the MG variants to get more castor angle. Of course that's then a nice little upgrade you can do on an other HH-R.
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#8 Post by The Origina lNom » Mon Oct 15, 2018 2:51 pm

Update:
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#9 Post by GTiJohn » Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:11 pm

Fitted length and rate are the 2 main variables for a spring. A spring is too short if its fitted length is shorter than needed to cope with full suspension travel as it can become loose. You'd have spotted this when you put the strut assy together.
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#10 Post by The Origina lNom » Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:34 pm

Indeed, the ZS spring was only just under tension when fitted to the new shock
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#11 Post by GTiJohn » Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:38 pm

The Origina lNom wrote:
Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:34 pm
Indeed, the ZS spring was only just under tension when fitted to the new shock with the damping rod fully extended.
The standard spring on the standard shock was under considerable tension due to. its length.
Listen for knocks when driving and have a look after a few miles under your wheels to see if they move as there might be a little bit of extra dynamic movement in the damper. The matching ZS dampers might have slightly less travel than your originl damper.
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#12 Post by The Origina lNom » Thu Oct 18, 2018 1:39 pm

Thank you
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#13 Post by The Origina lNom » Tue Oct 30, 2018 5:34 pm

Update:

It did not work well.
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#14 Post by 220 GSi turbo » Tue Oct 30, 2018 7:11 pm

The Origina lNom wrote:
Tue Oct 30, 2018 5:34 pm

I was reading a post that I saved from Rovertech that mentioned 2.25 was the optimum width for the exhaust pipe. Apparently this will mate up with a Rover Diesel mid section and rear box. I don't know which Diesel though ?
I would suggest that if the original Rovertech post was discussing an R8-based 216 or 416, the exhaust from a 218 or 418 diesel (Peugeot engine) was being used.

On your HH/R-based 416, you could look at exhausts from the 420D or 45/ZS diesel with the L-series engine, unless anybody knows if R8 exhaust sections will fit on an HH/R?
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Re: The Hunt For Driveability in a 416

#15 Post by The Origina lNom » Tue Oct 30, 2018 8:01 pm

Thank you.
Last edited by The Origina lNom on Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:25 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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